Pappy Van Winkle 12 year review
Van Winkle Special Reserve 12 Year (aka Pappy Van Winkle 12 Year)
Distillery: Old Rip Van Winkle
Region: Kentucky, USA
Type: Bourbon (wheated)
Alcohol: 45.2%
Composition: 70% Corn, 16% Wheat, 14% Barley
Aged: 12 years, aged in virgin American white oak (opened in 2015)
Color: 1.3/2.0 on the color scale (russet, muscat)
Price: $70 MSRP (750mL), but $600+ in many places
From the Old Rip Van Winkle website:
“Van Winkle Special Reserve is the perfect combination of age and proof. This sweet, full-bodied whiskey has been described by some as “nectar.” The 12 years of aging and medium proof seem to be just right in creating a very pleasant drink of whiskey. This fine bourbon can compete with any excellent cognac as an after-dinner drink. The overall impression is rich and deep.”
Distillery: Old Rip Van Winkle
Region: Kentucky, USA
Type: Bourbon (wheated)
Alcohol: 45.2%
Composition: 70% Corn, 16% Wheat, 14% Barley
Aged: 12 years, aged in virgin American white oak (opened in 2015)
Color: 1.3/2.0 on the color scale (russet, muscat)
Price: $70 MSRP (750mL), but $600+ in many places
From the Old Rip Van Winkle website:
“Van Winkle Special Reserve is the perfect combination of age and proof. This sweet, full-bodied whiskey has been described by some as “nectar.” The 12 years of aging and medium proof seem to be just right in creating a very pleasant drink of whiskey. This fine bourbon can compete with any excellent cognac as an after-dinner drink. The overall impression is rich and deep.”
Pappy Van Winkle 12 year Overview
Van Winkle Special Reserve 12 year, often referred correctly / incorrectly as Pappy Van Winkle 12 Year, is from the fabled and incredibly difficult to find Pappy Van Winkle Line of wheated bourbons and one Rye, otherwise known as “Pappy” in general.
This is one of the few wheated bourbons on the market, and is produced (but not owned) by Buffalo Trace. Since this is a “Pappy” product, obtaining this at a “reasonable” price is difficult given the insane demand and once-a-year release. As a result, it sells out immediately, sold via lottery, or at exceedingly high markups.
There’s one thing I think is worth mentioning about Van Winkle Special Reserve 12 Year – it’s also often called Pappy Van Winkle 12 Year. While Pappy Van Winkle 12 Year technically isn’t the correct name, I totally understand why some say it that way. While it is associated with the Pappy Van Winkle brand and legacy, only the 15, 20, and 23 year technically have the Pappy Van Winkle name on the label. I mention it because some people are quite…particular about the exact language. I don’t care but wanted to make sure you were informed, so call it Pappy Van Winkle 12 Year, Pappy 12 Year, or magic unicorn juice.
So yeah…Van Winkle Special Reserve 12 Year / Pappy Van Winkle 12 Year is very sought after, but in this review I’m going to dive into whether the bourbon is “Top Shelf” and a worthy? Let’s find in this Van Winkle 12 Year review.
As an FYI, I bought and use these Glencairn glasses from Amazon for my reviews and comparisons (because they’re the best): Glencairn Crystal Whiskey Glass, Set of 6, Clear, 6 Pack. Full transparency, this is an affiliate link, so I may earn a commission if you buy this or something else from Amazon.
As an FYI, I bought and use these Glencairn glasses from Amazon for my reviews and comparisons (because they’re the best): Glencairn Crystal Whiskey Glass, Set of 6, Clear, 6 Pack. Full transparency, this is an affiliate link, so I may earn a commission if you buy this or something else from Amazon.
Buffalo Trace Lineup of Reviews
Pappy Van Winkle 12 year Smell
Van Winkle 12 (aka Pappy Van Winkle 12 Year) immediately hits my nose with an almost overwhelming surge of alcohol, surprising for something that’s 45.2% and 12 years old. After that initial alcohol rush, there are very nice secondary notes of orange, with some grapefruit, green grapes, and apple juice that aren’t strong, but easy enough to pick out from the alcohol.
The citrus and fruit notes, combined with a little bit of honey from the grains remind me of orange marmalade spread on wheat toast, as well as Tang, the sweet orange drink. There’s also a hint of walnut and cherry, as if it was an amontillado sherry. There is surprisingly only a little woodiness on the nose.
Once the glass is empty and only the heads remain, I smell apple juice, allspice, and cinnamon. After leaving the glass alone for a few more minutes, the glass emits a slightly dusty, wood chest that hasn’t been opened for years, scent.
Van Winkle 12 Year’s combination of must and orange also leads to dried orange peel. The dusty smell really threw me off, so after my first glass, I cleaned it and tried it again. Even then, that musty smell reappeared. It’s not unpleasant, just unexpected.
Underneath the alcohol, is a complex, citrusy, fruity, and nutty whiskey. It’s a unique scent, very different from the usual wood and brown sugar-forward bourbons. It’s a shame that it’s dominated by alcohol, it could have been so much more.
Pappy Van Winkle 12 year Taste and Aftertaste
Unlike the smell, the Van Winkle 12 Year is gentler on the palate. The first taste is not of powerful alcohol, but a moderate citrus taste with subdued notes of honey and grain, again reminding me of orange marmalade on toast.
I can see how people describe it as “nectar”. The alcohol is present in the background, but does not overpower the other flavors.
There is also some wood spice in the taste. Unlike Maker’s Mark Cask Strength, another wheated bourbon I reviewed, the Special Reserve does not have the sourdough, yeast, or dry grass tastes.
The aftertaste is short, leaving light flavors of cereal, wood, and oddly enough, coconut-flavored coffee creamer (raw coconut meat, cream, and sugar). Swishing the whiskey around leads to a longer aftertaste and adds mint chewing gum after you’ve just spit it out of your mouth, something I would expect from a bourbon with rye, not wheat.
Overall, Van Winkle 12 Year (aka Pappy Van Winkle 12 Year) flavors are very good and enjoyable, but not outstanding. The citrus and fruit-forward notes are unique and interesting, but nothing pops out and makes me think that this is amazing. If some of the flavors were a bit more bold, this could be excellent.
Whiskey is also for sharing, so I use Vivaplex, 12, Amber, 2 oz Glass Bottles, with Lids for smaller samples and Vivaplex, 12, Amber, 4 oz Glass Bottles, with Lids for larger ones. Full transparency – This is an Amazon affiliate link so I may earn a commission if you buy this or something else. Regardless, I actually use these myself.
Place on the Whiskey Shelf
Overall, the Old Rip Van Winkle 12 Year (Pappy Van Winkle 12 Year if you want to annoy some people) is a very good, but not great bourbon. On taste alone, it’s nearly excellent, but lacks a “wow” factor because of its muted and subdued flavors. Maybe it’s the ABV, maybe it’s the blending. Unfortunately, the smell detracts from the overall experience because of the overpowering alcohol on the nose.
While the fruit notes in the Van Winkle 12 Year are unique, especially in bourbon, I don’t think that there’s anything exceptional about it to take it to the “Top Shelf” level. The whole time, I just thought “This is pretty good and unique, I’d drink this again.”
For better or worse, this is one of those “rare” bottles that flies off the shelf regardless of how good everything else is around it. The Pappy Van Winkle name alone elevates it to an unobtainable luxury whiskey, but the hype doesn’t match the liquid inside…not even close at that.
To be fair, I would still buy Van Winkle 12 Year if I could get it for $70 plus tax, but I couldn’t justify much paying more than the asking price, especially the near 4 figure price now a days.
Meet the Author: Alex
I have far too much fun writing about whiskey and singlehandedly running The Whiskey Shelf. I hope to bring you independent, honest, and useful reviews, comparisons, and more. Proudly Asian American and speaks Cantonese, Mandarin, and some Japanese.
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